Skagen Graa Fyr.
At the Northernmost point of Denmark at the point where two seas meet, exists a 600-year-old fishing town called Skagen. More precisely Skagen lies on the east coast of the Skagen Odde peninsula at the point where the Skagerrak meets the Kattegat waters. Far into the 19th century, Skagen Odde was among the places in Denmark with the highest proportion of shipwrecks. Therefore Skagen Odde was in earnest need of a very tall lighthouse to act as a beacon for the seafaring community.
Following four long years of toiling with the stunning but unforgiving sand masses. In 1858 the grey lighthouse at Skagen was finally built designed by the architect Niels Sigfred Nebelong (1806-1871) who later became master builder in Copenhagen. The lighthouse consists of an unpainted round brick tower with a lantern and gallery. When it was built it was more or less at the centre of the Skagen Odde peninsula, but as a consequence of coastal erosion, it is presently very near the Kattegat coast to the southeast. At the time of its conception, it was the tallest lighthouse in all of Denmark standing at 46 meters and stayed that way right up until 1952 (Dueodde Lighthouse on Bornholm is just one meter higher.) Skagen Grey lighthouse is more than twice the height of its predecessor the White lighthouse built in 1747 and designed by Philip de Langes. Originally the Grey lighthouse was lit up using a five-wicket paraffin lamp, and it wasn't until 1948 that the lighthouse became electrified! replacing the paraffin light first with a 1,000 Watt then with a 1,500 Watt electric lamp.
Today there is a 400 Watt sodium lamp which every four seconds can be seen up to 20 miles (37 km) away.
In 1859, Hans Christian Andersen journeyed to the lighthouse and described it as a “magnificent lodging with elegant rooms and comfort …”.
After more than 150 years the Grey lighthouse has withstood the unrelenting weather and still towers over the rebellious northern sea. Here its modest and resilient materials are encircled by the beautiful and rugged landscape stretching out towards Grenen, Skagen, a pintle for migrating birds when they fly through Denmark on their phenomenal journey.
Inside, white plastered curved surfaces which complement the special Skagen light, and the subtle hues of the surrounding landscape escort you up the 210 winding steps to the top.
As you travel upwards bird song plays. Light and moisture creep in through the little openings creating miniature worlds of moss and mushrooms along the corners of the windows, echoing intricate fairy landscapes within the thick solid walls of a 150-year-old lighthouse.
After the climb, you are greeted by an enchanting view of Grenen, the scalloped coastlin, and fields of mesmerising heather offering a purple dappled view as far as the eye can see. From here you can experience live fascinating migratory birds. Some of which have travelled all the way from Africa.
Truly a sublime experience.
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